Thursday, 11 October 2012

Chocolate Pecan Krantz Cake


On Saturday, I was blindly speeding through my google reader when this post from Not Without Salt flashed past. The only thing my clouded brain latched onto was the italics of a quote.

“At its root, perfectionism isn’t really about a deep love of being meticulous. It’s about fear. Fear of making a mistake. Fear of disappointing others. Fear of failure.”
― Michael Law

A bell started to ting-a-ling in the back of my mind at each mention of fear but I still went back to alternately reading without comprehension and freaking out on the phone to my poor mum about this horrific, hostile situation I was sure to be placed in the moment I started.


I disagree with the first point of the quote. I think that perfectionism is more than fear. Fear is just the shadow, long or short, deeply shaded or dappled, depending on the time and place. I know that it can be a positive thing and that I wouldn't have achieved many of the things I have if I wasn't seeking perfection. When tamed, it makes me push myself, sparks creativity, makes sure all the little details are accounted for.

Yet if I do let fear take control, it becomes paralysing - as it did briefly last Saturday. If I listen to the voice telling me I can't do it, that I'm not good enough, I lose sight of everything. These days if it takes hold it's only for a few seconds, minutes, or - rarely - hours. I've grown into a strong fighter over the years. I'd love to get to the point where I never lose balance and hit the blank, numbing snow face-first. That's my goal. To be able to tell it to go away (possibly in saltier language than I'd use here) and see every single minute of my life clearly.

The actual reality of the new term is thrilling and inspiring. The moment I got on my bike to go home after the first day on Monday, I felt fully free again, my limbs loosening as they let go of the residual stress. I cycled home with a smile so big my cheeks hurt, my chest fizzing with the joy of it all, flying along the familiar roads of my beloved city with no effort whatsoever.


I bought a copy of the new Ottolenghi book, Jerusalem, a few weeks ago. The cover is printed fabric - it's a lovely touch, though I worry it'll get dirty in the kitchen. I believe the US edition is just about to come out.

By now it should come as no surprise that the first pages I slotted the blue ribbon bookmark between were in the sweets section, involved the largest amount of butter, sugar and chocolate and had the most complicated method.


I also thought that the recipe looked unusual. The yeasted dough is made with plain flour and treated similarly to a brioche. It barely rises when proving and doesn't greatly expand when you bake it. The loaf is then soaked with lots of sugar syrup, filling most of the crumb. It's dense and sticky, very rich, filled with nuts and pretty punchy with the chocolate. It's not bread but it doesn't feel like cake either.

I did change a few things: I halved the recipe, adding extra water and butter to replace the remaining half egg; swapped the caster sugar for brown sugar; toasted the pecans; baked the ends so they didn't go to waste (as you can see below, they didn't last long); didn't - despite the strict note - use all the syrup and, finally, sprinkled a hefty pinch of Maldon sea salt flakes over the top. Another time I think I would take the lemon zest out of the dough (I'm not a huge lemon-chocolate fan) - it could be replaced with vanilla, cinnamon or another sweet spice.

The technique of splitting the roll of dough lengthways and then twisting it is brilliant - it creates such a bold design. I might try it with a normal cinnamon bun dough soon.


Finally, I've decided to settle on one post a week on Thursdays. Before now I've aimed at 6-7 a month with one a week as a minimum but I think it'll be easier at the moment to formally organise it into my week and admit that I can't do more than one. So you can expect a post every Thursday evening - the email subscribers should get it on Friday morning.

I'm also proud to announce that last Thursday I won Best Food Blog at the Cosmopolitan Blog Awards 2012! It was a bizarre, dreamy evening filled with sequins, sparkle and rather loud music (I'm getting old). You can watch a short video about the evening here - it includes the moment I won and a little interview bit, which starts at 1:10. Finally, I'd like to say a big thank you to whoever nominated and voted for me.


Chocolate Pecan Krantz Cake
(adapted from Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi's Jerusalem)

For the dough:
265g plain flour
50g soft brown sugar
1 tsp fast action dried yeast
zest of half a lemon*
pinch of salt
1 large egg
85ml water
85g unsalted butter, at room temperature but not too squishy

For the filling:
100g pecan halves
65g dark chocolate, approx 70%
60g unsalted butter
25g icing sugar
15g quality unsweetened cocoa powder
1 tbsp caster sugar

To finish:
130g caster sugar
80ml water
big pinch of sea salt flakes (optional)

Tip the flour, sugar, yeast and zest into the bowl of a stand mixer. Stir together with the dough hook in your hand. Add the egg and water and stir again. Once most of the flour has been absorbed into the liquid, put it on the machine. Knead on medium for 2-3 minutes until you have a uniform dough. Add the salt then start adding chunks of soft butter, bit by bit (roughly a tablespoon), letting each piece work into the dough in between. Once it is all in, keep mixing for 10 minutes on medium - scrape down the sides a few times within that time. Once done, the dough will be totally smooth, silky, just come away from the sides and should pass the windowpane test if you want to check. Place in a greased bowl, cover with cling film and leave in the fridge overnight.

When you come back the next day, start by toasting the pecans in a dry frying pan until they start to smell nutty. Leave to cool. Grease a 9x4"(23x10cm) loaf tin and line the bottom with baking parchment (you could line the whole tin - might be easier to lift out at the end). Take the dough out of the fridge - it will be solid but don't worry. Place the butter and chocolate into a small pan (or in a bowl over a pan of simmering water if you're nervous) and melt gently over a low heat. Transfer to a bowl then stir in the icing sugar and cocoa powder - you should have a thin paste.

Lightly dust a work surface with flour. Form the dough into a square shape with your hands then start rolling it out. It will get softer as it warms up but you don't want to let it get too warm before you've finished. It needs to be rolled out to a rectangle of 38x28 cm. Try to keep the edges as straight as possible - turn the dough 1/4 turns regularly as you roll. Trim the edges so they're straight when you have the right size. Spread the chocolate mixture evenly over the dough with a palette knife, leaving a 2cm gap around the edge. Sprinkle the pecans over the top followed by the caster sugar.

Take a look at this picture series to help. Brush one of the short ends with a bit of water and then start tightly rolling the dough up towards it - as you would for cinnamon rolls. Seal the end. Use a sharp serrated knife to cut 2cm off each end of the roll. Cut the roll in half lengthways. Weave the two halves together, cut side up. Transfer to the tin. I then popped the two ends into another little tin. Cover with a damp tea towel and place in a warm spot to rise for 1 - 1hr 20. The cake will only rise a little in this time - don't worry.

Towards the end of the rise, preheat the oven to 170C/ 340F. Unwrap and place into the middle of the oven. Bake for 25-30 minutes - you may need to put a bit of foil over the top to stop it browning too much at the end. When it is ready you should be able to remove a skewer from the middle cleanly. My little ends only took about 15 minutes. While the cake bakes, make the syrup: place the sugar and water into a small pan and heat until the sugar has dissolved and it has just come to a boil. Leave to cool a little.

Once the cake is out of the oven, immediately start brushing the syrup all over it - you may have to let it sink in a few times and come back again. I think I used about 2/3 in the end - if you want it really sodden, keep going. Sprinkle with sea salt flakes if desired. Take out of the tin once it has nearly cooled. Best fresh but keeps for 2 days in a tin and up to a month in the freezer.

(Makes 1 loaf)

* You could replace this with 1 tsp of vanilla extract or paste, 1 tsp cinnamon or another flavouring.


A few related posts:
Braided Lemon Bread
Pear and Chocolate Loaf 2.0
Super Chocolate Cinnamon Rolls

119 comments:

  1. This is such a cool idea! Love the look of this - so unique!

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  2. Absolutely stunning! I made a Babka this past weekend, but this is FAR prettier.

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  3. This looks so good! I think I'm going to have to try it soon... And congratulations on your blog award!

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  4. Wow this looks amazing. I'm so fascinated by obscure bread based recipes at the moment. I might have to give this a try. Well done again on your win at the Cosmo awards. x

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  5. Jeni- Mum of Emma12 October 2012 at 09:26

    You describe your relationship with fear so clearly. As you say fear paralyses- but it is such a wonderful feeling when you do get beyond it and become yourself once again. I can just imagine that smile on your face as you cycled through the majestic streets of Oxford.

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  6. I love the appearance of this cake/loaf - it's like nothing I've ever seen. That sideways shot almost looks like ribs streaked with fat (but also looks absolutely delicious, that's not an insult!).

    Big congrats on the award again and really pleased to hear we'll be getting a new recipe every Thursday :-)

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  7. Non credo che sia tanto facile da fare ma l'aspetto è bellissimo, complimenti!!!

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  8. Absolutely beautiful idea to let the stripes show, gives it so much character! You have a stunning blog!

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  9. I bought Jerusalem at the weekend and immediately marked this recipe as one to try to thank you so much for dividing the recipe! I think I'll opt to leave the lemon out too - maybe orange instead?

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  10. First of all, congratulations on the award. Your work is always so beautiful, so it's no surprise. And, this cake looks incredible...

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  11. ohhhh. that just looks sooo beautiful! i'm a bit put off by all the dough kneading (i knead my dough by hand), but i will definitely try this swirling thing next time i make cinnamon buns. i live in sweden and cinnamon buns are almost sacred here, there is a cinnamon bun day!! i'll impress everyone with this cinnamon bun/loaf!

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  12. Normally a cake like this wouldn't interest me, if I passed it in a shop I probably wouldn't be too tempted. Your photos make this cake look so fantastic I want to reach through the screen and take a bite. I guess I'll have to settle for getting the book and making it myself.

    Congratulations on the blog award! You definitely deserve it, I'll be looking forward to every post that you have coming out on Thursdays. :)

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  13. I brought Jerusalem the other day (after an Ottolenghi cooking demonstration), this was the first thing I booked marked! It looks so beautiful.
    Congratulations on the award, well done.

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  14. Ooo you've made a cake that I'd be nervious of attempting much easier to consider. Thank you!

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  15. Prettiest cake ever! I love it. I must get my hands on a copy of Jerusalem soon!

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  16. Congratulations on your win! Well deserved. This recipe sounds delicious and looks beautiful. Are all the recipes in Jerusalem this good? Would you recommend the book overall? I've been eyeing it for a while now and after seeing this recipe I think I might have to get it.

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  17. All the effort and obsession with perfection means you've created something absolutely stunning! Well done with your Cosmo award too!

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  18. Orange zest might work here. Orange and chocolate are heavenly.

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  19. Valuable information ..I am delighted to read this article..thank you for giving us this useful information. Great walk-through. I value this post.

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  20. Congrats, Emma! You've really been raking in the big awards lately. Much deserved. And you looked adorable at the awards, although I have to admit the whole thing looked overwhelming to me. Maybe I'm getting old, too. :)

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  21. Hi Emma. This sounds right up my street and is so attractive too. Those stripes are stunning. Many congratulations on the award. As one of your many voters, I am really pleased you came out top. Well deserved. Amy (I can't add my name at the moment on my iPhone for done reason so have to choose Anon!)

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  22. Please, I'd rather hear a review of this cake! Has anyone actually MADE and EATEN this??

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  23. Wow!! I am drooling at the sight of this

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  24. I just got ahold of a copy of Jerusalem. Your version of the cake looks so similar to the one from the book. Very stunning. I like the idea of splitting the roll down the center and twisting it. Thanks for the encouragement.

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  25. can you knead the dough by hand or do you have to use a dough hook?

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  26. poiresauchocolat17 January 2013 at 10:17

    Normally I'd say yes but as you need to add the butter and not warm the dough up - not to mention knead for about 12 minutes on machine (so probably 20 by hand) - I'm not sure it would work.

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  27. First of all, I'm not the most experienced patissier yet. For the 19 years of my life so far, I have rather focused on cooking. So naturally, for I don't own a KitchenAid/Kenwood kitchen machine, I just went at it since the cake looked and sounded so good in Jerusalem. After an extended period of kneading -- at least 30, more like 60 minutes -- I still wasn't sure about the consistency since the texture still improved until then. While google'ing the recipe for further infos on hand kneading, I found your block, which seems quite nice (and I usually don't like food blogs, especially the pretentious babbling "food critics"). Anyhoo, the windowpane check, which I was ignorant of before, worked out. So in the fridge it went. It rose a little too quickly, probably due to the warmth, so I knocked it down a bit after one hour.

    [As noted above, I'm not the most experienced patissier, and since I didn't prepare homemade pasta nor had access to an oven in the past six months, I forgot about the better kneading techniques. Halfway through, I remembered the technique Marcella Hazan talks about for kneading pasta dough (stretching it with the heel(?) of your hand, then folding in half, turning 90° and repeat). So if I had remembered it prior to beginning to knead, I probably wouldn't have needed an hour.]

    So, the dough worked out fine, as far as I could tell. Everything else went smoothly, too (the second babka had a little too much chocolate in it, which is why it looks a little deformed). For some unknown reason, I accidentally bought Brazil nuts instead of pecan nuts (in German, they are Paranuss and Pekannuss). I don't really like Brazil nuts and since I remember pecan nuts to taste similar to walnuts -- maybe a little less bitter --, I used 80g of walnuts and 20g of Brazil nuts. Great!

    The babkas were done in 25 minutes (had to cover them for the last ten). Still need to get an oven thermometer, so I can't say whether it were precisely 190°C. I have one recommendation to anyone baking this krantz cake -- use all the syrup. Yes, it will be extremely rich, but wow, so worth it. I don't usually like to praise my work, but it's one of the better things I've eaten in a while. Gotta love Ottolenghi. Loved Plenty and love Jerusalem too. So yeah, Emma (or Ms Gardner, whichever you prefer ;) ), you should definitely try it again with all the syrup.

    I've taken a couple pictures in the process, which may help you guys.. or not.., so here you go: http://imgur.com/a/yxeHb

    Enjoy the rest of the weekend,
    best regards from Hamburg,
    Nick

    ReplyDelete
  28. poiresauchocolat29 January 2013 at 09:15

    Wow! Pleased to know that you can make it by hand. Glad you like the salt idea too. Will have to make it again myself.

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  29. horrible....

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  30. I did it by hand, was absolutely fine. Just make sure you've melted and kneeded the butter in thoroughly. and kneed til shiny/sikly stages.

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  31. Found this blog cos I was looking for photos of Ottolenghi's gorgeous Chocolate Krantz cake from his cook Jerusalem. Nice blog btw... but i'm dissapointed you halved all his measurements! I loved the way he suggests making 2 whole cakes, because you'll love it so much. We did! And were so happy to have seconds.

    Also, a small variation I really recommend is to grate orange zest into the syrup mix, along with some vanilla extract. then add a good glug of triple sec / grand marnier. The orangey syrup is divine with the melted chocolate krantz.

    ReplyDelete
  32. poiresauchocolat3 March 2013 at 21:33

    I like the sounds of your variation, I'll have to try that. Glad to hear you had success making it by hand too. I halved it because I live alone and can't always round up enough friends to eat two big loaves that are so rich! It's easy to double it up again.

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  33. Hi Emma. I have to disagree with the comment about cutting recipes in half. I often do this and find it really useful when bloggers do (if not, I just do it myself!). I prefer to bake smaller and often! It just goes to show that we are all different - horses for courses! I think it is important that you post exactly as you do it - esp. if adapting as this is surely one of the great things about blogs as they show how recipes in books work for people at home. Anyway, back to what I was going to ask which is what you actually thought of this, as you don't actually say. Forgive me if you do and I have missed it! I am going to try it out but am also keen to hear your view as we seem to have similar tastes. How does it compare to similar things you have made, e.g. (perhaps) brioche, cinnamon rolls, other sweet doughs? I was prompted to come back to this post as this recipe has recently been posted on two other great blogs (seven spoons and patterned plate) and they both rave about it. I like the sound of your slight amendments - to toast the almonds, use brown sugar and leave out the lemon (maybe add orange) would be my instincts too. I note that the flavourings are also commented on by the others.

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  34. What do you mean? This is a made and tasted review, is it not?! :)

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  35. poiresauchocolat10 March 2013 at 12:40

    Hi Amy. I totally agree that we should post exactly as we do it - otherwise I wouldn't post the recipe! As for the recipe, I did enjoy it. My dough didn't rise as much as other photos I've seen - I think my yeast might have been a bit old. & I wouldn't use lemon again as I don't like it as much with chocolate. But I'm definitely going to make it again. I think my favourite part of the recipe was learning the splitting and twisting technique - I love the way it looks.

    ReplyDelete
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  37. Hi Emma
    I baked this today. The dough came togethrt ok and proofed ok but I found it really hard to handle today in terms of rolling out? It was very sticky so when I rolled it up it got very messy:-( Any idea why that would be?

    Irina




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  108. Also made this cake today but decided to go for the full version only used walnuts as i don't have pacans. We, me and family, have the first taste and it is divine. I am going to freeze the second cake to have it later. I did the dough by hand and in the beginning found it a bit hard and wasn't sure how it was going to end. Once the butter was added and well mixed I knew it was fine. I dusted a little with some flour and worked a bit more, it was a good end result.

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  111. I know I'm a little late to this post but I have a question about this recipe. I have the dough in the fridge right now and I am an avid bread maker so the fact that the recipe doesn't call for you to proof the yeast... or to add lukewarm water was a little offputting. I used lukewarm water just in case the recipe implied it. Any thoughts about that. I'm hoping the cake still turns out okay! thanks

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