Friday 18 January 2013

Brown Butter Pound Cake

It's been snowing all day in Oxford. I spent most of the day in the kitchen, watching the flakes fall and gather outside.

I've made this pound cake four times in two weeks. It's simple but shockingly good. Brown butter usually ends up as a background to other flavours, which is a shame (though I'm guilty of using it in all sorts of recipes). This cake keeps really well in a tin and freezes beautifully, as well as being both robust and fluffy.

When I first set about converting this cake from the original olive oil version to butter, I realised I had no way of working out how much solid butter I needed to create the required volume of liquid brown butter. Guessing seemed a bit... boring. Guessing also wouldn't help me the next time I needed to do it. So I spent my Sunday afternoon browning most of the butter in our fridge, armed with a calculator and the scales.

On the butter packet it should tell you the % of fat, protein and so on. The fat is usually around 82% (I believe it has to be 80% to be classed as butter) and the others total about 1%. This is what will be left when you've browned the butter and the water has evaporated - so for 100g of solid butter you'll get 83g of brown butter.

After experimenting, I worked out that the density of brown butter is 0.93 g/ml (mass/volume, 93g of brown butter is 100ml).

To work out how much solid butter you'll need, you first calculate the weight of brown butter you'll need to get the correct volume by rearranging the density formula (this recipe is the example in bold):

required volume (165ml) x 0.93 (density) = mass of brown butter (153g)

Then work out the amount of solid butter needed to create that mass of brown butter, using the package percentages:

mass of brown butter (153g) / 0.83 (% of fat + others in butter) = mass of solid butter (185g, rounded up to nearest workable weight from 184.3)

I've tried it out a few times and it's always worked. So, erm... yes. For those of you who want to try swapping brown butter for oils in recipes, no need to guess.

[/baking geekery] (Does it make it worse that I just spent a good ten minutes looking up the etymology of 'geek', 'nerd', 'boffin' etc on the OED? Probably.)

Brown Butter Pound Cake
(adapted from Cardamon Orange Pound Cake, which was adapted from the Olive Oil Pound Cake in Alice Medrich's Sinfully Easy Delicious Desserts)

185g unsalted butter
200g caster sugar
pinch of fine sea salt
3 eggs, cold from the fridge
200g plain flour
1 and 1/4 tsp baking powder
165ml whole milk
1 tsp vanilla paste (or extract)

Place the butter into a big pan and set over medium heat. Keep heating until you have brown butter (see this post for more detail/a step-by-step). Pour into a bowl and leave to cool - it needs to be room temperature. If there's any foam still lingering, spoon it off.

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F. Either line a loaf tin (around 9"/23cm long) or carefully grease a round/decorated tin (the one shown is about 8.5"/21cm across). Scrape the cooled butter into a stand mixer bowl and add the sugar and salt. Beat together until creamy, then add the eggs one by one, beating in between. If it curdles, don't worry - that's normal. Beat on medium-high for 5 minutes (do time this, it makes a difference) until pale and thick.

Sieve the flour and baking powder together. Tip a third into the mix and stir together on low. Slowly add half of the milk and briefly beat. Add another 1/3 of the flour, the rest of the milk, then the rest of the flour, combining in between. Add the vanilla and beat together one last time. Scoop into the tin and spread out.

Bake for 45-50 minutes until a toothpick comes out clean and the cake is a deep brown. Leave to cool in the tin for 5 minutes then turn out onto a rack. Best eaten once cooled. Keeps well in a tin for a few days and freezes extremely well.

(Makes one cake, about 16 slices)

A few related posts:
Old Fashioned Sponge Cake
Ginger Root Bundt Cake
Cardamon Orange Pound Cake


  1. I couldn't resist clicking on your post after seeing that first photo of your cake with that deep caramel colour and beautiful shape! Then lo and behold it's full of brilliant baking geekery! Loved it - you learn something new every day.

  2. Ah! That sounds so delicious and the mold is BEAUTIFUL! Where did you get it?

  3. Wow, you're developing into a little scientist :) Lovely idea to make this cake with brown butter, and it looks beautiful with that mould.

  4. Yum, this looks like my kind of cake, especially with a cup of tea! I love the tin you've used too - the end cake looks so simple yet pretty.

    P.S. Had meant to comment on your last post. Congratulations on your brave decision and good luck with your new plans and ventures. I don't doubt you'll achieve whatever you set your mind to!

  5. First thing I noticed was the lovely shape of the cake and then after reading the comments saw that everyone else also loved it too! I'm sure it tastes as good as it looks, but I DO like that tin/mould, can you say where you got it?

  6. Sophie {the cake hunter}19 January 2013 at 10:16

    That's fantastic that you sat and worked all out that. I thought converting things from cups to grams was mathematical enough for me. This is why I love the science side of baking so much. I love the tin you've used for the cake as well, such an amazing pattern on the top.

  7. Stephanie - The Dessert Spoon19 January 2013 at 10:40

    I really enjoy pound cake; the brown butter is a nice twist. Such a pretty cake tin!

  8. poiresauchocolat19 January 2013 at 11:34

    It's such a useful recipe - one of those you know you'll keep making for years.

  9. poiresauchocolat19 January 2013 at 11:35

    Hehe! Glad you enjoyed it - I wasn't sure if it was going a little too far...

  10. poiresauchocolat19 January 2013 at 11:36

    It's from IKEA! Sadly about two or three years ago, so I doubt you can get it now. Maybe ebay?

  11. poiresauchocolat19 January 2013 at 11:38

    I was very sciencey when I was growing up - I only started to like English when I was 16 or 17 or so. But I'm very rusty now!

  12. poiresauchocolat19 January 2013 at 11:39

    Fancy tins are great, especially when they make a simple cake look a bit fancier without drowning it in icing or something. & thank you for the good luck!

  13. poiresauchocolat19 January 2013 at 11:40

    Of course - I got it in IKEA about two or three years ago. I haven't seen it since but I guess you might be able to find one on ebay or something? I think it was a Swiss IKEA.

  14. poiresauchocolat19 January 2013 at 11:42

    It was so exciting when I realised that I was getting the same weight as the fat etc % - makes sense when you think about it, but I hadn't realised! I'm glad someone found it useful :)

  15. poiresauchocolat19 January 2013 at 11:43

    The brown butter gives it this amazing perfume and a subtle taste - it'd still be a good layer cake or something (whipped cream and berries in summer perhaps?) but it's lovely simple too - not too cloying or rich.

  16. Would you mind me asking where you bought this tin from? It's lovely!

  17. poiresauchocolat19 January 2013 at 15:17

    Not at all - I bought it from IKEA a few years ago. I thought they wouldn't but I've just looked at the website and they do still have it!

  18. poiresauchocolat19 January 2013 at 15:18

    I just looked and I found out that they do still have it!

  19. poiresauchocolat19 January 2013 at 15:19

    As I've said below, I've just looked and they do still have it if you can get to a store:

  20. Abbe@This is How I Cook19 January 2013 at 20:42

    I didn't go to Oxford so I am sooo glad you did the math! Sounds like a fabulous cake. Love the browned butter component And of course, I too, love the tin!

  21. That cake is just beautiful! I love the tin.

    And great work on the mathematical formulae for the brown butter - I'm a fellow geek and I love it!

  22. Looks wonderful, especially in your lovely tin. Totally agree that baking is the best thing to do amidst all this snow. Apart from sledging - and then you definitely need cake to come back to. This looks like such a nicely old-fashioned comforting cake for such weather too. But very glad you've already done the butter calculations.

  23. I'm inspired that you decided to work out the ratios for the butter before you got started, incredible. This cake looks delicious, though it has brown butter so it can't not be. It sounds amazing to bake in the falling snow, such a beautiful rarity in England. The first photo is one of the most beautiful food photos I've ever seen. The edge on that cake is stunning :)

  24. I do so appreciate some baking maths; I love how scientific the whole process can be and how you can work almost any recipe out with a calculator. It's magic. This sounds lovely - you're so right about brown butter often being a background note; it deserves a starring role now and again.

  25. Beautiful cakes, photos and blogging! I have spent hours looking through your blog and can not stop staring (and drooling) at the photos!

    I first came across your blog nearly a year ago because I was looking for advice and opinions about LCB. What you had written about the school is exactly how I feel right now. However, I don't regret (well I can't now that I have committed to the diploma) because I have met some lovely friends and formed some beautiful friendships. And of course have learnt (and eaten) a lot!

    Congratulations with your decisions re academia vs creativity. I completely understand your dilemma as I once too was (well, still am actually) that pendulum you were referring to. And telling others about my constant change of plans and ideas, I too, felt very embarrassed. But if I didn't go through that process I wouldn't be as happy as I am right now :) It takes courage to make these kind of decisions, so, as an Aussie, I'm going to say to you "good on 'ya mate!" :)

    Keep up with the brilliant work, you are truly inspirational!

    ps. love the Ikea star tin! :D

  26. Have never tried brown butter. Now I will. Am having another winter tea for friends this week and will be preparing this cake. Cannot wait to taste.

  27. Just out of interest, why should the eggs be cold from the fridge? Is there any particular reason for that?

  28. Thanks for posting this. Can't wait to make this cake.

  29. I'm seriously impressed by your scientific/mathematical studies! I need to be more precise in my baking - I know it's an exact science but I'm always so tempted to wing it a little bit.

    Love the shape of this cake and brown butter anything gets my vote :-)

  30. Cracking cake and formidable maths calculations. I am beyond impressed.

  31. rachel.goodhand2621 January 2013 at 17:40

    I've just come across your blog and wow, it's beautiful. Love the recipes and the simplicity of the design you've used. This particular recipe looks delicious and before I read it I didn't know what brown butter was, but I will definitely be trying it! And the scientific calculations....very impressive! The fact that baking always comes down to science is one of the things I love about it. I shall certainly be visiting your blog again!

    Oh and being an English Language student, I can also appreciate the fact that you spent 10 minutes looking up the etymology of words...! I find myself doing the exact same thing sometimes...!

  32. It was snowing in Berlin as well :) I was watching the flakes today with my cat. He's only 7 months old and got crazy about snow. And your cake looks amazing. I like the form.

    Marta @ What Should I Eat For Breakfast Today?

  33. poiresauchocolat22 January 2013 at 18:06

    To be honest, Oxford destroyed most of my mathematical/scientific knowledge - you're so focused on what you're doing it all gets replaced ;) But anyway, I'm glad you like the cake and tin.

  34. poiresauchocolat22 January 2013 at 18:06

    Heh well I'm very pleased it was appreciated - I was worried I might scare people off!

  35. poiresauchocolat22 January 2013 at 18:09

    Gosh, thank you! It was a lovely day in the kitchen.

  36. poiresauchocolat22 January 2013 at 18:12

    Exactly - I can see why you like it too ;) Though sometimes it's nice to throw caution and calculations to the wind and see what happens!

  37. poiresauchocolat22 January 2013 at 18:18

    I had a look at your blog and see that you're at the Paris school? Interesting that you feel the same way there too. I'm so pleased you like the blog!

    Also, I tweeted Alice Medrich (whose recipe I adapted for this) to ask about the eggs as I've been curious about her use of them for ages and she said that the cold eggs create more aeration in the batter - I haven't tested it out but I trust her recipes.

  38. poiresauchocolat22 January 2013 at 18:19

    What a treat to get to try brown butter for the first time! Have you read my foundations post on brown butter? Hope it all goes well.

  39. poiresauchocolat22 January 2013 at 18:19

    Thanks, I hope you get to make it!

  40. poiresauchocolat22 January 2013 at 18:34

    Hehe well I think there's merit in both methods - a bit of winging it can definitely create exciting things too. & I guess that's the best bit of knowing how it all works (not so much the calculations, but ratios and concepts) - the experiments are more likely to work!

  41. poiresauchocolat22 January 2013 at 18:39

    How lovely! Our youngest dog, Arthur, absolutely loves bounding about in the snow - especially fresh powder. Glad you like the cake.

  42. poiresauchocolat22 January 2013 at 21:53

    Ooh that sounds great. How are you incorporating it? Is it a custard base? I would have imagined it would rise & solidify on top when chilled down or does it stay homogenous in the custard? Or does that just beat in when you churn? Apologies for the barrage of questions! Poppy seeds must give it an unusual texture too.

  43. poiresauchocolat23 January 2013 at 12:27

    Merci! Je suis heureux que vous l'aimez.

  44. Been meaning to comment earlier but had issued with my computer. This looks absolutely divine and I like how this cake gives the brown butter the chance to shine - so many recipes come with interestng textures, are sweet yet salty and also have brown butter as an additional dimension. It must be nice to have the "unadulterated" brown butter flavour! Cute tin as well!

  45. poiresauchocolat24 January 2013 at 12:09

    Exactly - it's easy to forget what a fantastic and nuanced flavour it is - it's not just a nutty background. I like the idea of it being unadulterated - pure, not fussy.

  46. I just found your blog and love it! I really enjoy pound cake. Your pictures look wonderful! Blessings to you and your great blog. Diane Roark Visit Anytime!

  47. poiresauchocolat25 January 2013 at 00:00

    I'm so glad you like it! I enjoy plain cakes like pound cake too.

    P.S. I just found your comment in my spam box because of the link/visit comment - do be careful with that!

  48. love how even the crumb looks ! I will be making this for sure, thx for the recipe

  49. poiresauchocolat25 January 2013 at 10:36

    It's a great recipe - really even and stable. I think it'd be a great sponge to make a big layer cake or even wedding cake with - so much tastier than the normal ones and really easy to work with.

  50. poiresauchocolat25 January 2013 at 10:43

    Hehe! No, I'm British. You should definitely visit Oxford if you get a chance again - I think it's the most beautiful city in the UK (I am biased...).

  51. C'est rare que les personnes répondent sur leur blog. Je note votre attention et le temps pris pour ces quelques mots. Merci. Beaucoup. Happe week-end-end de dingue.

  52. I adore reading your blog, Emma, and admire you for continuing to write and post even when life gets busy.

    Right, I'm off to bake your Brown Butter Pound Cake - I love simple cakes so can't wait to taste it. It will be the second recipe I've tried from your blog. The first one was the Strawberry Cream Layer Cake I baked a couple of years ago for my friend's birthday. I remember it was absolutely delicious but I the amount of icing wasn't enough to cover the whole cake - perhaps I applied it too thickly?

  53. poiresauchocolat25 January 2013 at 20:39

    Oh dear, that's odd - I don't remember having problems with that icing. Though I do like a fairly thin coat of icing, so maybe that's why? I'll make it again once the strawberries come into season and check (oh the hardship). I'm glad it was delicious anyway! Hope this cake goes well.

  54. I have all sorts of postcards, maps and such from there, along w/ enough souvenirs to have qualified as a typical tourist. My friend loved it here in Texas, not nearly as green or as much live water, but she said the friendly people here made her feel welcome. After being around her so much and chatting via I.M. for hundreds of hours, I started becoming a little bit British, spelling things such as "humour" instead of humor and picking up expressions and getting odd looks when I'd exclaim "Cor Blimey!" She picked up some Texas expressions too, most of which aren't fit for a "G" rated website like this.

  55. The Brown Butter Pound Cake went very well, thank you! I was super anxious though as when I started baking I realised I had run out of plain flour - I had half the amount of white spelt flour and some strong bread flour only. Most websites advise against using bread flour for cake baking, but as it was snowing heavily outside I decided to take a risk. I was surprised how fluffy and light the dough seemed when I was mixing it - I think the addition of the spelt flour must have helped! In the end the recipe turned out to be fool-proof, and making brown butter is a joy.
    I've looked at the Strawberry Cream Layer Cake recipe again - I now think it could have been my oversight. The amounts you state are meant for a smaller tin, and if I remember correctly, it's likely I used a regular sized one, possibly forgetting to adjust the amount of icing. I think I too will make the cake again in summer as it was yummy, but will try different fruit - raspberries or blueberries maybe.
    Thank you again for you wonderful blog.

  56. Hi I made it today, I added some vanilla extract too, it was very light and fluffy, that 5 mins of mixing made all the difference. it slices beautifully too. A keeper for sure - thx again

  57. poiresauchocolat30 January 2013 at 19:19

    I'm so pleased it went well and you think it's a keeper too!

  58. poiresauchocolat30 January 2013 at 19:27

    I'm amazed it didn't get tough with the bread flour - though I guess it was only half. I'd love to know if there's much of a difference if you ever make it again.

    The icing solution makes sense. Raspberries or blueberries sound like a lovely idea. I really like blueberries with ginger - like this cake from years ago - maybe you could do the syrup with ginger if you adapt it? Just an idea!

  59. Natasha Steinberg30 January 2013 at 20:27

    I love so many things about this post. To start, this lovely, simple, perfect cake. The tin in which it was baked. And the geekery math you engaged in for oil/brown butter swaping. Love love love it all!

  60. poiresauchocolat30 January 2013 at 21:57

    Thanks Natasha, I'm glad you like it. I was worried I was going a bit far with the maths but people seem to enjoy it.

  61. Now that is a useful calculation! Too much of the math/physics/other stuff I learned in school is hard to apply. I can use this one in my daily life!

  62. Hello Emma. I discovered your beautiful blog a few months ago and promised myself I'd make something from it straight away. I've finally treated myself to a day off work for some therapeutic baking and a brown butter cake is now baking in my oven. The brown butter smelt fabulous and I'm looking forward to packing up a few slices to take on my rather long school run this afternoon and keep the children happy on the way home! Congratulations on your award, by the way. I'm so pleased you won.

  63. Every day is a brown butter day! Glad you found it useful.

  64. It really is the best smell, isn't it. I hope it tastes lovely now it's out of the oven and was useful on the school run. & thank you for the congratulations - it was/is such an honour.

  65. It does and it was! I'll definitely be making it again, and finding as many ways as I can of using brown butter.

  66. Wonderful! Once you start, it's hard to stop...

  67. Annabelle Reid6 March 2013 at 09:33

    I love this cake and have made it twice in 2 weeks. Unfortunately on the second occassion I forgot to add the pinch of salt and I do think it has a slight detrimental affect on the cake; the flavour is not quite as pronounced but it is still bloody good. I also forgot to the do the 5 minutes of beating after adding the eggs but I'm not sure this has affected the texture much, maybe it did not raise as much as the first time around. I make it in a bundt tin as I didn't have an round decorated tin. I found I only needed to bake it for 40-45 mins but I do have a fan oven. Thoroughly recommended.

  68. poiresauchocolat6 March 2013 at 09:41

    I'm so glad you like it, Annabelle! The pinch of salt does make a big difference. I think the beating does too, as I had a difference in rise and a slightly lighter texture. I reckon the shorter bake time is because of the bundt tin - the metal middle both takes out the bit that takes the longest to cook and helps the heat to spread.

  69. love this mould! Where did you pick it up? thx.

  70. poiresauchocolat10 March 2013 at 12:33

    It's from IKEA! They still stock it:

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  76. I tried this recipe the other day and LOVE it. I tweaked it a bit but was very pleased with the texture as well as the taste. My Sister, who is my taste tester, gave it her seal of approval. Light and fluffy, moist and quite yummy. Will definitely bake again. :)

  77. can i split this into smaller cupcake cases, will it taste the same/have the same texture?


  78. poiresauchocolat24 March 2013 at 22:52

    I'm afraid I have no idea - I've never tried it (or tried transferring a similar mix). I can't see why it wouldn't work, it'll just cook faster - I'm not sure how much faster. Sorry I can't be more help!

  79. no worries.. i'm just looking for a nice fluffy yet moist cupcake base for my sisters birthday. i'm not too experienced (just picked baking up less than a year ago) but have tried your recipes with great success, that's why am looking up to you for advise. Hehe.. do you have a cupcake base recipe that you swear by?

    Any advice will help, Thanks...

  80. poiresauchocolat27 March 2013 at 16:07

    To be honest, I don't really make cupcakes - I don't think I've made any for years. I think these were the last ones and I do quite like that recipe. Sorry I don't have a definitive answer!

  81. thanks, will try this in small cups and the link you attached!

  82. poiresauchocolat30 March 2013 at 16:12

    Do tell me how it goes, I'd love to know.

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