Thursday, 16 May 2013

Coffee & Walnut Cake v.2



Four years ago, when I first posted about this cake, I had a tempestuous relationship with the icing.

Behind the scenes, the icing in that post caused a fit of frustrated weeping (which was very embarrassing, as my then-brand-new-now-ex boyfriend was staying with me at the time - and let's face it, I was probably trying to impress him). Luckily I left it mixing and a few minutes later, it had whipped itself back.

Mum and I had been making the cake for years - it was my granny's favourite - but because we didn't understand the reasons and techniques behind the recipe, the icing was always nerve-wracking to make.



Delia calls the icing 'mousseline' (which appears to be a catch-all term for various things enriched with butter or whipped cream) but I think it's more accurate to call it French buttercream. One of our first exam dishes at Cordon Bleu involved French buttercream - it's a lot like Italian meringue buttercream except it's based on egg yolks instead of whites. I didn't realise the icings were the same until I made the cake for the first time in a few years for mum's birthday in April. I also found that my old recipe was too brief and not very clear, so I thought this was a good opportunity to talk about French buttercream and rewrite it.

The first step is getting the syrup to the right temperature. I'd recommend testing with a thermometer because it's easier and the finger test takes time. Having said that, if you don't have a thermometer or want to try it out, it's quite fun. The test for thread stage is to spoon a bit of the syrup onto a plate, then wait for it to cool. Squidge some syrup between your thumb and first finger then pull them apart slowly until you have a gap of about a centimetre - a thread of syrup should stay linking the two.



One of the problems is that different recipes take the syrup to different temperatures. It doesn't help that the temperatures stated for the stages seem inconsistent too - for instance, we were taught that soft ball was 116-122C but McGee says it's 113-116C. Thread, similarly, is 105-110C or 102-113C. Though others go to soft ball, Delia recommends 103-5C for this - I've been taking it up to 110C and that has been working well, so I've settled for that.

The second step is to pour the syrup down the bowl into the whisking egg yolks. I found it quite hard to visualise at first and mum used to get into a tangle by pouring the syrup into the whisk and it spinning everywhere, so I decided to do a little video for you. Excuse the little slip of the pan near the end - I'd recommend using a smaller saucepan with a long handle as they're easier to control.



After that, you leave it to whisk until cool. It's really important that the mixture is room temperature before you start adding the butter or it'll melt and create a mess.

Once it has cooled, you add the butter bit by bit. To illustrate the speed to add it (and because I find watching the mixer going round mesmerising), here's a clip of the middle of the step. Also note that I often squish the cube I'm about to add to give it a last minute bit of warmth and pliability. The butter needs to be room temperature but not melting or greasy.



Once the butter is all in, give it few more moments to whip. Finally, you can add flavourings - in this case, coffee.

If it goes a bit curdled towards the end, this can usually be fixed by whipping it for longer. If not, try putting it in the fridge for 15 minutes then whipping again.

Though the icing is rich, I like it much more than normal buttercream. The bitterness of the coffee and touch of salt cuts through the limited sweetness. It's also very smooth and thick, which is particularly lovely against the crispy-edged cake and toasted walnuts.



When I was making the cake in the photos the other day, I realised I'd run out of unsalted butter when I needed to start warming it up for the icing. I had some salted in the fridge so I decided to try it. The icing finally tasted exactly like I remember it.

It reminded me that mum always used to use salted butter for her baking - partly because that was what was in the fridge - but also because it was apparently harder to buy unsalted when I was little. It made me wonder if something got lost in translation as unsalted became more popular, as many modern baking recipes use unsalted and don't add salt. Perhaps it's because people weren't used to having to add extra salt to sweet dishes as traditionally the butter was salted to preserve it. I guess it's also because of health concerns.

Generally the reason unsalted is preferred is so that you can control the amount of salt. I think a pinch of sea salt improves nearly all baking and desserts. It's useful to have the control as packets vary - my salted butter had 1.8% salt, which is therefore 2.7g in the 150g butter I used. It is quite a bit and while I personally think it tastes amazing in the icing, it would be too much in some other recipes.



Coffee and Walnut Cake
(adapted from Delia Smith's Book of Cakes)

For the cakes:
60g walnut halves + 12 for decoration
1 tbsp instant coffee* + 1 tbsp boiling water
110g unsalted butter, at room temperature
110g caster sugar
2 eggs
110g plain flour
1.5 tsp baking powder
pinch of fine sea salt

For the icing:
2 egg yolks
pinch of salt (or a little more, to taste, or use salted butter)
60g caster sugar
60g/ml water
150g unsalted butter, cubed, at room temperature
1 tbsp instant coffee* + 1 tbsp boiling water

Preheat the oven to 170C/340F. Toast all of the walnuts for 5 minutes then remove the 12 halves for decoration and chop the rest roughly. Grease then line the bottom of two 7" round tins. Combine the coffee and water in a bowl or mug. Cream the butter and sugar together for several minutes until very pale and fluffy. Meanwhile, sift the flour, baking powder and salt together. Beat the eggs lightly together in a jug or bowl then add small amounts to the mixer, beating well in between each addition. When all the egg is incorporated, add the flour and mix on low until combined. Add the chopped walnuts and coffee and fold through. Divide between the tins and smooth out - it will feel like there isn't much mixture but don't worry. Bake for about 25 minutes until a deeper, rich brown and a toothpick can be removed cleanly from the middle. Leave to cool for 5 minutes then turn out of the tins and leave to cool on a rack.

For the buttercream, put the egg yolks and salt into the bowl of a stand mixer with the whisk attached and whisk briefly until broken up and a bit frothy, then turn off. Place the sugar and water into a small saucepan and place over medium heat with a sugar thermometer attached. Once the sugar has dissolved, turn up to medium-high, occasionally giving it a gentle swirl, until it reaches 110C/230F. This takes me about 5-6 minutes (the last 10 degrees are often the slowest). The moment the temperature hits, turn the yolks up to medium speed then steadily pour the hot syrup down the side of the bowl, resting the lip of the pan on the top of the bowl (see video above).

Turn the mixer up and leave to whip until you can't feel any heat in the mixture - this takes about 7 minutes (check if it is cool by touching the outside of the bowl, then if that is room temperature, testing the mix itself with a finger). If it is cool, start adding the butter, which should be soft and pliable but not greasy. Add the butter cube by cube, letting each piece disappear before you add the next. At stages it might start looking weird or curdled but just keep whipping and slowly adding the butter - this all takes about 7 more minutes. When you've added all the butter and have a thick, glossy buttercream, whip in half the coffee, followed by the other half.

Place one of the cakes on a serving plate. Spread half of the buttercream over the cake then place the other cake on top. Spread the remaining buttercream over the top then decorate with the remaining walnut halves.

(Makes 12 small slices)

* This cake tastes weird to me with anything other than cheap instant coffee as that's what I grew up with. Feel free to try using very strong proper coffee, though I'm not quite sure how you'd get a thick concentrate like this.


110 comments:

  1. AnnieMammasaurus16 May 2013 15:33

    Looks deeeeeelicious!

    ReplyDelete
  2. This looks so lovely, and even though the icing might be scary I'm sure it's totally worth it! Happy to hear you figured everything out!

    ReplyDelete
  3. The icing is similar the French butter cream, very rich and very buttery.This is a perfect example of where it should be used! Retro rewind with this coffee cake; I think the first cake I ever made was a coffee cake. As for the butter, I think people use unsalted because salted butter often is masking bad flavours of substandard butter (don't quote me on this!)
    Such a rustic design, so lovely.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Sue@the view from Great Island17 May 2013 00:18

    I'm crazy for coffee and walnut cakes. I made one a while back which I loved, but it didn't have a luscious frosting like yours. I love how it pillows and drapes off the end of the cake...very sensual!

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  6. Simply wonderful!!! I will look forward to make this tonight!! Your post made my day. thank you for the video and demystifying a superb looking icing. I love your pininterest site.

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  7. Salted butter is definitely the default butter in Australia - quite different from most of Europe where it's unsalted. It's because back in the pre-refrigeration days salt helped preserve butter and I suppose we developed such a taste for it that it's still the favourite today. Interesting to note how much salt is in the butter. I'm quite partial to salted butter on my toast and I think it must be gorgeous with this walnut cake but as you say, it's not for everything!

    ReplyDelete
  8. I was talking to someone only the other day about how I haven't had coffee and walnut cake for years - your post is so timely! It's such a classic isn't it?

    ReplyDelete
  9. Pinned! ;-) This looks like exactly the kind of gorgeous homely coffee cake I had growing up too (in fact I'm sure we made the Delia one). I'm sure your adaptation is even better and can't wait to try this out.

    ReplyDelete
  10. rachel.goodhand2617 May 2013 19:21

    Coffee cake has to be one of my favourites and this looks delicious! I'm intrigued about the icing too - I may have to give it a go!

    ReplyDelete
  11. Amy @swiss miss in the kitchen17 May 2013 20:35

    I loooove walnuts but I never bake with them!! Will definitely change this, your cake looks so wonderful and tasty!!!

    ReplyDelete
  12. Looking forward to trying salted butter next time I whip up some butter cream...
    Great to hear you find Pinterest both useful and enjoyable!

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  14. I need the recipe for one cake. This mentions two and I need it in quantity not in grams .

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  15. poiresauchocolat18 May 2013 09:02

    It is - and doubly so because of the memories :)

    ReplyDelete
  16. poiresauchocolat18 May 2013 09:03

    I probably shouldn't have made it sound scary - but then I did find it scary a few years ago. I promise it's fine when you know what you're meant to be doing.

    ReplyDelete
  17. poiresauchocolat18 May 2013 09:05

    Hehe, that's what I was saying - that I realised it was a French buttercream! Glad you like it. Funny you say about the salted butter being substandard - I usually buy cheaper unsalted to cook with a nicer salted to eat on toast and things. I'm pretty sure most recipes are written with unsalted so you can control the amount used.

    ReplyDelete
  18. poiresauchocolat18 May 2013 09:06

    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  19. poiresauchocolat18 May 2013 09:06

    It's such an amazing icing, I love it on this cake. I hope you try it!

    ReplyDelete
  20. poiresauchocolat18 May 2013 09:07

    I'm so glad you like the videos! How did it go? I'd love to know.

    ReplyDelete
  21. poiresauchocolat18 May 2013 09:13

    I don't usually pick to bake with walnuts either. I think it's really worth toasting the walnuts before you use them here - it really brings out the flavour. I hope you try this :)

    ReplyDelete
  22. poiresauchocolat18 May 2013 09:13

    Thanks Sara! Do try a bit of salt - it really balances things out.

    ReplyDelete
  23. poiresauchocolat18 May 2013 09:15

    This is the recipe for one cake - the two cakes mentioned are the two layers - the mixture is split between two tins and baked before they are sandwiched together, as you can see in the pictures. I'm not quite sure what you mean by quantity but I'm afraid I don't work in cups or other measuring systems - only metric. I hope that helps :)

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  25. Li @ Words and Cake18 May 2013 12:58

    I love coffee and walnut cake. That icing looks like a sweet latte colored cloud that I could just dive into.

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  34. diginhobart.blogspot.com.au21 May 2013 05:23

    my mum made a fantasic coffee walnut loaf cake recently - not as pretty as this, with no icing (of any kind) - more like a slab for morning tea kinda cake. but so good.
    i must say i always use salted butter in my baking because (like you) i think a pinch of salt brings out the flavour, especially in a choc cake. here in australia, salted butter, as one of your other readers says, is the default butter - it is just labelled 'butter' or 'unsalted butter'.
    anyway, now i'm hungry ...

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  40. poiresauchocolat24 May 2013 10:42

    Thanks Jenny - do let me know what you think if you try the icing.

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  51. diginhobart.blogspot.com.au27 May 2013 06:17

    yes - you can buy 'butter' or 'unsalted butter'. one of the lovely international differences in baking that makes our reading so interesting :-)

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  52. lol - i remember the first time I read a french buttercream recipe. I thought that the publishers had made a mistake! Have you read Stella's recipe for faux french buttercream? http://bravetart.com/recipes/FauxFrenchButtercreamGF It's the one that I use now to decrease the amount of washing up that I need to do :P

    I'm on the hunt for a perfect coffee and walnut cake, and i think that this one may just be it.

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  53. Just thought I'd write back quickly to say I tried this recipe last week for my mother's group - I didn't have time to make the buttercream icing unfortunately (it was a miracle I even found time to bake a cake, if you ask me, having a 5 month old around takes a lot of time out of the day!), so made just a dribbly icing with icing sugar, coffee and melted butter, but it's lovely just plain too and went down very well with the other mums who all mmmmm'd and ahhhhh'd! x

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  54. poiresauchocolat3 June 2013 10:38

    I'm glad you like it :)

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  55. poiresauchocolat3 June 2013 10:39

    Haha yes, it is an odd concept in some ways. I have read Stella's post though I haven't tried the method - will have to give it a go.

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  56. poiresauchocolat3 June 2013 10:40

    Ooh, interesting - I've never had it without the icing! Glad it went down well.

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  57. I remember making the Delia mousseline when I was about 8 or 9, on my first solo baking adventure... I seem to remember it being so frustrating, especially when I added the coffee and it didn't seem to incorporate and just ran down the mountain of buttery icing - I think I perhaps needed to beat it a bit more! Thanks for the trip down memory lane!

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  58. poiresauchocolat4 June 2013 17:06

    Blimey, that's quite an ambitious first solo baking adventure! With these types of icings, a bit of extra beating often seems to do the trick. Glad you enjoyed it :)

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  67. CecilyTechuan25 June 2013 22:28

    Yup, and it's so unusual to have a recipe out of Cook's Illustrated (America's Test Kitchen) to leave stuff out. They are usually very precise, sometimes to the point of getting rather pedantic if you are familiar with the techniques.

    We can get salted butter in sticks, but I've tried it in the recipes, and either I haven't found the right brand (the one my mother and grandmother used) or else they don't formulate butter with the same salt content to get them to taste just like they did when I was a kid. I prefer recipes to be precise, so I'd rather use unsalted butter and have the right amount of salt in the recipe so that future generations can replicate it :)

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  68. The Tiffin Box12 August 2013 22:20

    I was a bit of a late comer to this post, but after I found it last week I couldn't wait to have a go! Having some guests visit over the weekend was the perfect excuse. I loved the recipe, best coffee cake I've ever tried. The icing made it completely fabulous! I used salted butter and will definitely do the same in the future. Thank you!

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  69. poiresauchocolat13 August 2013 11:15

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